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Every time the first cool fronts start sliding across our coast, I am initially taken back to those early days, and my attempts at staying out of that stiff-as-a-board full-suit for as long as possible.

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It occurred to me the other day, while still basking in the glow of the Hurricane Michael big Wednesday swell, that surfing’s importance in a wave rider’s life is constantly in flux, as fluid as the ocean itself.

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Galveston surfers, who flocked to the island this week in droves, were greeted with corduroy lines to the horizon on Wednesday morning courtesy of Hurricane Michael.

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BSR Surf Resort in Waco ended its season early after reports that a New Jersey surfer died Sept. 21 from a rare, “brain-eating” amoeba—Naegleria fowleri—which has infected just 143 people in the U.S. between 1962 and 2017

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Like a lot of the surfers I know, I spent a part of the previous weekend online watching the World Surf League’s competition held at Kelly Slater’s Surf Ranch in central California.

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A much-heralded documentary film that shines a spotlight on the triumphant but tumultuous life and tragic death of professional surfing icon Andy Irons is headed for Galveston.

centerpiece
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What’s changed over the past decade or so is where newly acquired surfboards originate. Based on the photos I’m seeing online, it seems that most surfers in the Lone Star State don’t ride boards shaped in Texas.