The almanac will tell you that June 20 is the first day of summer. That may be literally true, but summer truly begins with the first bite of a perfectly ripe, vividly colored, messily juicy watermelon.

We’re lucky enough to have access to reasonably good watermelons for a huge stretch of the warmer months, but right now is when the Texas melons are reaching their prime of sweetness, color and texture.

Bernice Torregrossa:

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