After spending the summer searching for the perfect fresh tomato, it’s now time to deploy canned tomatoes, and there are a surprising number of dishes where the canned varieties outshine their fresh counterparts.

That’s especially true for tomato soup. Dozens of comforting tomato-based soups, ranging from chunky minestrones to creamy bisques, get their flavor from canned tomatoes. That makes it doubly easy to make a big pot of tomato soup on a cold day: There’s less prep work, because the tomatoes are already peeled, and because most of the soup ingredients are shelf-stable, the tomatoes can be waiting in the pantry for the next day that calls for hot soup.

Bernice Torregrossa: bernice92@aol.com.

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